Hardwiring pucks to AC power?

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    John Bartlet

    Hi there,

    There is in fact a way to do this on the Puck side. The Puck Door/Wall Mount has a place for the USB cable to exit the Puck and into a wall. 

     

     

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    John Bartlet

    Just to add: Before mounting/wiring the unit, we strongly suggest double checking that the IR signal from the Puck is able to hit communicate with the mini split. 

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    Steve Rossi

    If you're doing this near a wall switch you can probably hide the wire in the wall and expose the end of the plug to plug in. I've used these wall-switches which add a usb plug:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Y2B2P5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I think electrical code would prohibit you from having the transformer itself inside the wall.  I didn't think about trying to do all the usb wiring internal, but I'll look if I can find either a wall switch or plug that would let you tap power from inside the receptacle box. Chances are you will need a USB extension; the cord included with the pucks only gives you about 37 inches from the puck to the end.

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    Phil

    This is all tremendously helpful, thank you!

    So is the power supply just standard MicroUSB power?  What's the (milli-)amperage requirement for a puck?  If this is the case, I may be able to find a 5V stepdown transformer rated for in-wall use, and make my own MicroUSB plugs.  Or perhaps run low-voltage wiring to a central transformer.

    What is the radius of the puck itself?  (Trying to understand how it will interact with a 1-gang electrical box)

    Thanks,
    Phil

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    Steve Rossi

    The included transformer is 1000mA.

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    T

    I'd like to confirm that the puck is powered at 5 volts, please. A USB cable, in and of itself, does not necessarily imply 5 volts. Thank you

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    Daniel Myers

    Hi T (and everyone else on the thread!),

    The USB voltage is in fact 5V - the one catch is that we need the data lines disconnected so a regular adapter/cable may not work (hence why we try to make sure customers use the supplied adapter/cable set).

    That said, we recently built a solution that makes this pretty clean - it was designed with new construction in mind where dry wall was not installed yet so that the installer could mount a USB outlet (either just USB or a 110 outlet with USB built in) and then just plug in the Puck.  We aren't selling this through our site yet (so far just new construction buyers) but I figured I'd give you a preview.  Is this something you (anyone on the thread) would be interested in?








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    T

    That is an interesting solution. I'm sure a lot of folks might like it. For me personally though, I'm wiring up some new construction with low voltage anyway, and I'll be mounting thermostats higher on the wall than I'm comfortable with a 1-gang going. I'll just poke a tiny hole for the cable to come through where I want it. Much easier to spackle over later on, if necessary.

    Since it's just 5v, I should be able to use a regular micro USB cable with pins 2, 3, and 4 taped off, or one of those cables that only work for charging, like so:

    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/bBsAAOSwcHRdQLoe/s-l500.jpg

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    Daniel Myers

    That should work great.  Out of curiosity, where would you put the transformer from low voltage (POE?) to 5V?

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    T

    All the low voltage wiring goes back to the mechanical room.

    Two 2.5A outputs of this:
    https://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=ALTV2416ULCBI3

    Connected to a couple of these:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V7YY5X6

    And I can power up to 20 5v@1A thermostats.

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    Daniel Myers

    Any concern that the Altronix is putting out AC and the transformer is DC to DC?

    If the 5V wire run is too long, you might get some voltage sag but if the bulk of the wire run is at 24VAC and the AC/DC bit is resolved, it seems like a nice solution.

    Since the Altronix is 24VAC - you can drive our vents off that as well! :)

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    T

    Yeah, I mistook that for a DC output box. One or two of these should do: https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/PIDB-24VDC-9B

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    T

    And yes, the fact that your vents allow for hardwiring is a huge plus. They definitely will be. There's too many batteries involved in home automation as it is.

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    T

    I can just use an adjustable buck converter to compensate for voltage drop where necessary.

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    Brian Wuttke

    T I am rewiring my whole house and am wanting to hardwire the pucks.  Did you have success? What products did you use?  Excited to hear about your project.

     

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    Daniel Myers

    Hi Brian,

    Hope you are well!  I know this is higher up on the thread but we have a lot of new builds going in with these:  https://flair.co/products/usb-mount

    Cheers,
    Dan

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    T

    I had to back-burner this for several reasons Brian, but as for hardwiring the pucks, if you have decent access to the wiring inside the walls, I would just get the 24v power supply and buck converter I have linked above, and wire Class 2 from each room down to a mechanical room.  It may require more than one buck converter, depending on how many thermostats you have. That's the cleanest way I can think of, and when I actually get around to doing it, that's likely how I'll do it.

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    T

    If the data wires need to be disconnected, then that's too easy to do when splicing in a micro USB cable at the end of each run

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    Dan Meier

    @DanielMyers, the USB Mount that you reference is a nice solution. The single USB wall adapter shown on the product page makes for a clean and elegant installation, but where did you find this item?  I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Can you recommend a source?

     

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    Brian Wuttke

    Dan Meier The USB mount for some reason only seems to be available the the Flair "Pros shop" page not through the consumer buyers page.  I'm not sure why.  I'm sure someone could probably add it to an order for you.

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    Flair Customer Support

    Hi All,

    The USB mount should be available here, at the bottom of the page:

    https://flair.co/pages/catalog

    All the best,

    Finn

     

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    Dan Meier

    @Finn, thanks for the catalog link to USB Mount.  However, my question was about the single-plug USB wall outlet shown in your product pages.  I have not been able to find a source for this item.  However, @BrianWuttke suggests this item is listed on the Flair "pro shop" page.  Can you list it on the non-pro catalog page, as well?

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    Brian Wuttke

    @Dan Meier I was referring to the same thing as Flinn. Not the wall outlet. I'll see what I can find from my wholesalers on a single USB wall outlet

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    Flair Customer Support

    Hi Brian and Dan,

    The image of the single USB wall outlet was fabricated for the image. I've searched and haven't been able to find a single. If you can find one, that'd be great - we can recommend it!

    All the best,

    Finn

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    Matt

    Reading this question made me wonder, which sent me down an internet rabbit hole of searches.

     

    Could use use a single keystone USB jack?  Assuming you're extending USB from someplace else or feeding low voltage as described above.  They have these in single port mounts.

     

    If it's a hard wire 120 volt normal wall box.

    Something like the Legrand adorne system and a USB outlet.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-adorne-2-1A-USB-Single-Outlet-Half-Size-White-ARUSBW4/203516087

     

    Alternatively, found on a 2015 AVS Forum post I think, a BOCCI 22 system USB and wall plate.  The price is a bit insane to me, but I bet a Puck mounted over one would look good.

    https://bocci.com/product/22-3-10-usb/

    https://bocci.com/product/single-gang-mounting-plate/

     

    I have not used any of these, they're simply what I found while searching down the rabbit hole.  I have all my Pucks sitting on tables with the USB adapter plugged in the wall.

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    Dan Meier

    Despite considerable searching, I haven't been able to find a single-port USB wall outlet. Indeed, finding ANY USB wall outlet with a horizontally mounted USB-A port is difficult.  However, here are the closest options I've found.  Note that I've steered away from "keystone" solutions (which require messy connections inside the wall box) and opted, instead, for outlets with traditional Romex wire connections.

    2-Port USB-A Outlet with Surge Protector from Insignia - $10

    4-Port USB-A Outlet from Insignia - $18

    4-Port USB-A Outlet with LED Status Light from BESTTEN - $17

    4-Port USB-A Outlet from Legrand - $32

    It's be helpful if the Flair folks could validate the power compatibility of these options.

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